There are myriad ways to
attach the sole to the upper, but only a few techniques are used in mass
production. Shoes were conventionally made by molding leather to a wooden last.
The latest technology has introduced modern materials and automated much of the
manufacture. Extraordinary as it may seem, the manufacture of shoes remains
fairly labor-intensive in the contemporary world. No matter what the type of
construction is, the first stage in construction is always to fix the insole to
the undersurface of the last. Two main functions follow: Lasting refers to when
the upper sections are molded to the last and insole. Subsequently, there comes
Bottoming, where the sole is attached to the upper. The procedure of bottoming
will determine the quality, price, and performance of the shoe. The following
are described as different methods.
Cement Construction
(also known as the Combo Process or 'Stuck on construction' (UK))
This technique is used
for flexible and lightweight shoes, and the outsole is fixed to the upper by
adhesive. Bon welt is another variation, with its unique feature being a strip
of welting fastened by cementing or stitching to the top edge of the insole.
The shoe is then flat lasted.
Stitch down (also known
as veldschoen or Veldt)
An economical method
technique to make lightweight, flexible soles for children's shoes and some
casual footwear. They are flanged at the edge of the last and stitched to the
runner. In some nations, it is known as 'veldt' and 'veldschoen.' The method is
used for lower priced footwear.
Moccasin
They are the oldest shoe
construction techniques, consisting of a single layer section that forms the
insole, vamp, and quarters. The part is molded upwards from under the
surface of the last. An apron is then sewed to the gathered edges of the vamp,
and the sole is tacked to the base of the shoe. This way is used for flexible
fashion footwear. The mock moccasin has a visual appearance of a moccasin but
does not have the cape around the construction of the genuine moccasin.
Molded Methods
The lasted upper is
placed in a mold of the automatic sole attaching machine,
and the sole made around it by injecting liquid synthetic soling material (PVC,
urethane). Otherwise, the sole may be vulcanized by converting uncured rubber
into a stable compound by heat and pressure. The sole-upper bonding is complete
as the materials in the molds cool down.
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